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Paris is known for its iconic landmarks—but some of its most magical experiences are the ones you don’t hear about as often.

For us, that hidden gem was Pavillons de Bercy, home to the enchanting Musée des Arts Forains.

A family friend suggested we visit, and it quickly became one of our favorite experiences in Paris—one we might have completely missed otherwise.

The museum is unlike any other.

It’s a private collection, meaning visits are by timed entry only and must be done as part of a guided tour. Hours are limited, and it does take some planning to fit into your itinerary—but it is absolutely worth it.

From the moment you step inside, the space feels transported from another time. This is a world of carnival and fairground history, filled with pieces that date from the 1850s through the early 1900s.

The collection is the life’s work of Jean-Paul Favand, an actor and antiques dealer who dedicated himself to preserving the magic of historic fairgrounds.

And magic really is the right word. It felt like stepping into a place where adults were allowed to play again.

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Musee des Arts Forains- A Hidden Gem in paris

Our tour of the Musee des Arts Forains began in the Venetian Salons, where we were invited onto a gondola carousel.

As the music started and the carousel slowly turned, our guide set the tone for the experience ahead. Though the tour is conducted in French, we were given a printed English guide, which helped us follow along while still immersing ourselves in the atmosphere.

In another room, we were treated to an operatic performance unlike any other.

Animatronic figures dressed in elaborate Venetian carnival costumes sang as the music echoed through the space. We found ourselves moving around the room, watching each figure in turn, trying to take in all the details at once.

It was mesmerizing.

From there, we moved into the Théâtre du Merveilleux.

This room felt grand and theatrical, filled with pieces from historic world fairs, including elements from the Exposition Universelle 1900. At the center stood a massive organ, its music filling the room as life-sized horses appeared to prance around us.

There was something joyful and unexpected about it all.

At one point, a few couples in our group began to dance, and somehow it felt like the most natural thing in the world—to be swept up in the music, surrounded by movement and light.

The experience became even more interactive as we entered the main fairground gallery.

Here, the past wasn’t just on display—it came to life.

We rode carousels, played vintage games, and stepped into the kind of entertainment that once defined an evening at the fair. A row of racing horses quickly became a favorite, with everyone eager for “just one more round” as we tried to outdo each other.

Another carousel featured bicycles instead of horses, requiring one person to pedal while others rode along. It was surprisingly fast—and unexpectedly hilarious.

It wasn’t just something to look at. It was something to do.

The final spaces felt quieter, but no less magical.

Glass cases held delicate artifacts from past fairs—trinkets, carvings, and imaginative displays that invited you to lean in and take a closer look. Mermaids, unicorns, and intricately carved figures seemed to watch over the space, each piece telling part of a larger story.

One of the most striking pieces was a beautifully detailed hot air balloon topper, anchored by an elephant and rising upward in painted detail. It was easy to imagine it floating above the streets of Paris in another era.

The tour ended in a grand ballroom.

Music filled the space once more—piano keys moving on their own, an accordion playing without hands—and visitors were invited to dance. And somehow, after everything we had just experienced, it felt completely natural to do so.

There’s something about this place that gently pulls you out of reality and into something more playful, more imaginative.

As we stepped back out into the courtyard, preparations were already underway for the annual Festival du Merveilleux, a special event where the museum opens more freely to the public with performances and concerts.

It immediately went to the top of our list for a future visit.

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Know Before You Go

If you’re planning a visit to Pavillons de Bercy, a little preparation will go a long way:

Book your tickets in advance
This is a private museum, and visits are only available through guided tours with timed entry. Tickets can sell out, so it’s best to plan ahead and reserve your spot early.

Tours are guided—and typically in French
The experience is built around the guided tour, which is conducted in French. Printed materials are usually available in English, allowing you to follow along while still enjoying the atmosphere.

Check opening days and times carefully
The museum is not open daily, and hours can be limited depending on the season. It’s worth double-checking availability as you plan your Paris itinerary.

Plan your timing around the experience
The tour lasts around 90 minutes and moves as a group through each space. You won’t be able to explore independently, so it’s helpful to arrive on time and be ready to move with the group.

Come ready to participate
This isn’t a typical “look but don’t touch” museum. You’ll have the chance to ride carousels, play games, and interact with the exhibits—one of the things that makes it so memorable.

Consider visiting during the Festival du Merveilleux
During the annual Festival du Merveilleux, the museum opens more freely with performances and special events. It’s a completely different way to experience the space.

Make the trip part of your day
Located a bit outside the main tourist areas, it pairs well with exploring a different side of Paris—slower, quieter, and just a little unexpected.

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The Musee des Arts Forains in the Pavillons de Bercy wasn’t just a museum.

It was an experience—one that invited both kids and adults to step into a world of wonder, to play, to laugh, and to forget, even briefly, the pace of everyday life.

We went because of a recommendation. We left calling it our favorite thing we did in Paris.

Thanks for coming along to the magical Pavillons de Bercy – Musée des Arts Forains. May you be filled with wonder and joy at a time gone by.

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Follow along for more adventures near and far!

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