We got started on the wrong foot with Munich. We left Salzburg in the cold rain and were happy in thinking that we had a nice warm train ride that would take us down to Munich in a couple of hours. But no sooner had we gotten on the train when we were told they were doing maintenance on the tracks just past the border into Germany. We were only on the train for a short time when everyone had to get off. We were told only to go down the street and turn right to the bus station and so we followed the others to the bus station.

And there we waited…in the freezing rain…for over an hour…waiting for whatever bus was arranged to take us all to Munich. Everyone was wet and cold, but no one dared go inside the station for fear that the bus would come and leave and we would be stuck there. There was also an unspoken understanding that the seats on the bus were first come, first serve and with as many people as were waiting everyone wanted to make sure they got on that bus.

We watched many buses come and go. With each new arrival someone would run up to ask the driver if it was the bus that would take us all to Munich. We waited for an hour in that freezing cold rain and despite umbrellas we were all pretty soaked through. Finally the bus arrived, but when someone went to ask they said it was not the bus. We went back to waiting dejectedly. The bus driver had a smoke and then gestured over to the man who had asked and said yes it was the bus after all. We all made a mad dash to the bus. Tessa and I got seats in the back, crammed in with so many others in seats and in the isle. Poor Brad ended up in the middle with our luggage where he would be standing the entire time.

More than two hours later we pulled up to an station miles outside Munich. We all ran across the platform to the train that would take us into town. From there we would have two more transfers on the subway and a bus ride to make it to our hotel. Thank goodness at the main station when we got all turned around with where to go, someone from our long bus ride directed us. What should have been a quick two hour train ride to Munich turned into six long hours.

We were still a little grumbly the next morning as we set off to see Munich. It didn’t help that the day was bitter cold. We had signed up for the city’s hop on hop off bus to give us an overview of Munich. But we had a difficult time finding the bus stop. We walked down the beautiful Leopoldstraße street with tall trees standing on either side of the sidewalk. And at a stop light we loved the group of men racing in their little go carts down the street.

We came to the Munich RE business building where we met the Walking Man. This statue was created in 1995 as part of the company’s art program. It stands at 17 meters high and is meant to represent progress, dynastism, and the will to disrupt Seems like a fitting description for not only the statue but for the city itself.

As we continued down the street we came to the memorial arch, called The Siegestor. This arch was originally commissioned in 1852 by King Ludwig I of Bavaria to represent the glory and honor of the army. During WWII it sustained heavy damages and in the rebuilding afterward there was talk of demolishing it. Instead they restored the arch partially and added the inscription that translated means “dedicated to victory, destroyed by war, urging peace”.

We came to the Ludwigskirche with the beautiful colored tiles along the roof. King Ludwig I commissioned the building of the church. He even went as far to name all the bells in the towers after himself. I loved the effect of those unique and colorful tiles. I think it’s the first time I’ve spent more time looking at the roof instead of the building.

A little farther down the way we came to the Odenplatz. There was another church, this one an interesting mustard yellow color, called the Theatine Church of St. Cajetan and Adelaide. Building of the church began in 1663 in honor of the the long awaited birth of an heir to the Bavarian throne. The Baroque style and the color made this church so unique.

Next to the church at the memorial marked another kind of beginning, this one much less happy. It was here on these steps that Hitler first had a run in with the police and was then incarcerated. While in jail after this incident he he would write Mein Kampf, the autobiographical manifesto that would be the beginning of the Nazi party.

We made another quarter turn in the square and found ourselves at The Residence, the royal residence and the governmental seat, where a Christmas market was taking place in the courtyard. We walked around taking in the amazing smells and the twinkling lights. The kid section had animatronic scenes telling Christmas stories and fairy tales. We loved seeing the items for sale and the lovely shops themselves.

Our mood had thawed but the weather had not, so we decided that a bus tour around town sounded really nice. We had finally found the the central point of the hop on hop off bus. There were three lines that would take around different parts of the city and we spent a couple of hours riding through the city in the warmth of the bus.

We drove out by the incredible Schloss Nymphenberg, which was the main summer residence of the former rulers of the Bavarian monarchy. It is one of Europe’s most premier royal palaces. The exterior length surpasses that of Versailles in Paris. It has gone under multiple expansions since its construction. The palace and the surrounding park could be an entire day trip in itself.

The pointed tops of the Olympiapark rose up before us. The summer Olympics were held here in Munich in 1972. Visitors can tour the facility and it still is home to many cultural and athletic events that are held throughout the year. Someone next to us on the bus said that there is a Christmas market being held here but that it is a more modern than traditional kind of market.

Next to the Olymiapark is the BMW headquarters and museum. For all the car lovers, this is a great opportunity to see the history and evolution of these cars. German cars are known throughout the world for their precision engineering, attention to detail, and high performance design which always makes them desirable cars.

By the time it was dark, the city had come alive with a whole new energy. We enjoyed some of the sights like the Opera House and the tower in Marienplatz. But we were tired and cold from a day spent walking and then riding our way through Munich so we would leave those places for the next day.

We had started our day in Munich on the wrong foot, but by the end we came to appreciate the history and the beauty of this city and found we were excited to see more of it.


For some other city tours, you may be interested in these:

Tel Aviv- Israel

Rio de Janeiro- Brazil

Pape’ete- French Polynesia


Thanks for coming along on this day around Munich. May you walk forward with progress, dynamism, and a willingness to disrupt the norm.

20 responses to “A Cold Day Around Munich {Germany}”

  1. Travels Through My Lens Avatar

    That was certainly an unfortunate start to your trip to Munich! The bus driver was lucky he was shouted at by the angry mob after making you all wait even longer to board the bus. Munich looks beautiful and you certainly packed a lot into your time there! Great photos and post Meg.

    1. grandmisadventures Avatar

      It made for a rough start for sure. He’s lucky that we all didn’t shout at him, but that we were all too cold to do much more than grumble our way onto the bus otherwise it would have been a full on mutiny. Munich was really interesting and I think we would like to go back and see more of the city when it is not so cold outside 🙂

  2. Monkey's Tale Avatar

    I hate thise travel days when it seems that everything that can go wrong does. But at least you ended up on a good foot with the city and could see its beauty. Maggie

    1. grandmisadventures Avatar

      Days like that are rough because it makes you think maybe it’s better to cut and run and just go home. I was glad we didn’t though because Munich was beautiful, even though a little cold. 🙂

  3. Tanja Avatar

    What an ordeal arriving to Munich. But you managed to see a lot later and spent some time at the Christmas market. Nice photos

    1. grandmisadventures Avatar

      Thank you! It was an ordeal for sure, but I’m glad we made it and found the city so much better than our first impression 🙂

  4. Little Miss Traveller Avatar

    How annoying about the way all the passengers were treated on the rail replacement bus service. I would have been pretty miserable about standing in the cold and rain so long too. Despite having visited Germany many times I’ve not yet made it to Munich so it was very interesting to tag along on your tour of the city and to explore the Christmas Market.

    1. grandmisadventures Avatar

      It was really annoying and I think the bus driver should feel lucky that we were all too cold and wet to mutiny our way onto that bus. Thank you, Munich was a really interesting city and the Christmas markets were just delightful 🙂

  5. thehungrytravellers.blog Avatar

    Blimey Meg what happened to the legendary German efficiency, normally everything there runs like clockwork. You would have expected them to have laid on a decent replacement bus system. I’ve been to many German cities but not yet to Munich, so it’s interesting to read of the various sights it has to offer.

    1. grandmisadventures Avatar

      That’s what I wondered- where’s that dependability that Germany is known for. We were about to jump on any bus and just it take us anywhere besides that bus station. But I’m happy to say that Munich was far better than our first impressions of it 🙂

  6. Toonsarah Avatar

    What a shame about the tortuous journey to get here! It does look very cold, but the Christmas market looks lovely as do the old churches and other buildings. In that weather the bus was a great idea for your sightseeing!

    1. grandmisadventures Avatar

      I’m glad we made it at all to Munich because we were about ready to cut and run and finish out our trip somewhere else. But when we got there, Munich proved to be really interesting and the Christmas market was lovely so we were glad we went 🙂

  7. travelling_han Avatar

    That bus doesn’t sound like fun at all….and it’s really rare of German trains to be so bad. In 30 years of visiting every year, I’ve never once had a train delay!! Munich is an amazing and historic city, though it is biting cold in November to February. I’d be straight to Kartoffel Hutte for my hot potatoes, and then in to the Residenz to warm up – I hope you got to visit inside as it’s beautiful, especially the theatre 🙂

    1. grandmisadventures Avatar

      That’s what I have always heard about not only transportation in Germany, but everything in Germany so it was so weird to not be met with that. Munich was really beautiful once we got there. Sadly we only saw the courtyard of the Residenz. But now I’ll know to add the interior and Kartoffel Hutte for next time. Oh hot potatoes sounds so good right now! 🙂

  8. The Travel Architect Avatar

    I was so surprised by the disorganized train snafu you experienced that I read the first three paragraphs to the husband but left out the city names to see if he could guess where this happened. At first he said Morocco, but as more details kept coming he figured it was Europe and thought maybe Italy or the Balkans. Like me, he couldn’t believe it was Austria/Germany. That’s almost as surprising as if it happening in Switzerland!
    We’re strongly leaning in another direction for our 2025 travels, but for a while there the leader was a road trip starting and ending in Munich (and that incorporated Salzburg). There’s so much history there (as you pointed out). I’ll definitely get there one day. I think some of the trauma from having our car in France/Andorra this past summer is making the thought of another car-focused Europe trip seem kind of unappealing. I need to put a few years in between us and that experience before I do it again. 😉

    1. grandmisadventures Avatar

      I was so surprised too because Germany is known for their reliability and precision with everything, not the least transportation. It was a really rough beginning to the country and we were pretty close to throwing in the towel and going back to Austria for the rest of our trip. Glad we didn’t and stayed to see more of Munich and Bavaria, but I completely understand why after your car trouble that you would want a little distance between that time and the next visit. But a road trip through Germany sounds pretty fantastic- preferably in the warmer months just in case 🙂

  9. WanderingCanadians Avatar

    Sounds like an awful journey to get from Salzburg to Munich. You’d think they’d have the bus situation better figured out if the tracks were closed for maintenance. Besides the rough start (and the cold), Munich looks quite lovely.

    1. grandmisadventures Avatar

      It should have been much better arranged since they knew it was happening. But once we actually got there and got warm we really enjoyed Munich 🙂

  10. leightontravels Avatar

    Ah Meg, every now and then we all have travel nightmare days like your one to Munich. A potential two our breeze turning into a six hour ordeal would have pissed me off and that’s without the rain and general disorganisation thrown in. I’m so glad you got through it and were able to bring us these absorbing snapshots of the city. The city looks every bit as handsome as I expected, even in the gloomy bitter cold of winter. Standing on the “Hitler steps” must have been a spine-shivering moment, the weight of history and all that.

    1. grandmisadventures Avatar

      It was a really bad start to Munich, so bad in fact that we were about ready to get back on the train and go anywhere else for the remainder of our trip. There were tears, profanity, and scrambling to get a dry pair of socks out of the suitcase. But I’m glad we made it and got to see Munich. It’s so strange how so much history can be packed into something as simple as a few moments on the steps and how that one moment changed everything. It felt all the more strange next to the jovial sounds from the Christmas market just a little ways away.

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