We set off first thing in the morning towards the outer area of Salzburg. With so many large and beautiful houses along the road, we knew that we had found a very well to do part of the city.
What brought us here was the desire to see Schloss Hellbrunn (Hellbrunn Palace) despite being told at the tourism office that the place was closed for the season. And maybe touring the palace itself it closed, but we were thrilled to find the grounds open and decorated for Christmas. So we took a walk down the long entry path loving the giant red ornaments hanging from trees, the little shops lined up for the Christmas market, and the gnomes made of branches.
When we reached the end of the lane, we stopped short at the amazing festive sight before us. Helbrunn certainly knows how to celebrate the season. With all the festive cheer around, we almost forgot that this house and much of its park was one of the backdrops of the movie ‘Sound of Music’.
We just couldn’t get enough of the decorations and the set up of the market. We were so disappointed that the market wasn’t open while we there. But our disappointment reached new depths when we learned that evening that had we waited for a couple hours we would have been right in the middle of the market fun. We talked to a couple who had spent many Christmas seasons here in Salzburg and they said that the market at Hellbrunn is their absolute favorite Christmas market. Well at least we got to enjoy the ambiance without the crowds.
We took a walk through the rest of the park with the long paths through the trees and across the greens and around the ponds. With blue skies above us and green space around us, it made for a very lovely and peaceful walk.
Because we travel with our daughter, we have become international playground collectors. And of all the playgrounds we have stumbled upon, this one in the park was the absolute best, for many reason but especially the long zip line with a perfect view of the mountains in front of it.
Of course we had to go and see the Sound of Music pavilion where Liesl Von Trapp danced and sang about being sixteen going on seventeen. At time of writing, Charmian Carr who played Liesl is the only one of those who played the Von Trapp family who has passed away. Next to the gazebo was a tender and lovely tribute to her and that moment in the gazebo.
We walked back across the park with the thought to go and check out the Salzburg Zoo that was there. But instead of going to the zoo we hiked up the path where we were met with a stunning view of Untersberg Mountain in the distance. Normally visitors can take a cable car up to the top of the mountain, but it was closed while we were there.
We carried on up the path, passing the Folklore Museum which was also closed for the season. We have an ever growing list of places that were closed that will be at the top of our list next time and this museum was added to the list.
But even without the museum being open, we were rewarded for the hike at the top with an incredible view of Salzburg. Even from here the fortress stood out against the sky.
We returned to the city center where we passed the Mozart Wohnhaus (Mozart Residence). Known for a long time as the ‘Dance Master’s House’ from nobility dance lessons taking place here, Mozart moved in 1773 because his family home had become too small for their family. He would host many a glorious party and recital here during his career.
Before enjoying the festivities of the Christmas markets of Salzburg, we decided to start with the Salzbuger Weihnachtsmuseum (Salzburg Christmas Museum). We entered the museum and found ourselves face to face with the Krampus in all his forms. Krampus is a horned devil like figure who scares the children who have misbehaved. This character is so common in folklore that he even has his own day where he can be seen prowling the streets. The Krampus is shown in equal measure to Saint Nicolas during this time of year.
The rest of the museum gives a beautiful presentation of different Christmas traditions from the giving of sweet treats, to nutcrackers, to advent calendars, and Christmas cards. It was lovely to see how these traditions began and how they have stayed through so many years.
After learning the history of Christmas traditions, we were ready for the markets. There are a few different markets that pop up around town. But because they are all so close to each other it is easy to wander into one. Every one is beautifully decorated and just fills the soul with the festive spirit.
We listened to a choir sing carols from the steps of the cathedral. We watched the train make its happy loop around the tracks. We wandered from shop to shop seeing what they were selling and wanting to take all of it home with us. We were awed by the lights and made hungry by the smells. The whole experience was magic.
The next morning we headed out to enjoy the last few hours of our time in Salzburg. We walked through the gardens of Schloss Mirabel (Mirabel Palace). Once again scenes from Sound of Music came to mind as we strolled through this beautiful garden on our way to the old town.
The Sound of Music has been such an enduring aspect of the US culture for 50 years, so it is interesting to me that here it is not really such a big thing. They do it for the tourists who grew up with the movie and the songs. This probably comes from when the movie made its way to Europe it was years later and then it was translated in German which maybe didn’t come across with the same feel. And the movie was different from the real Von Trapp family in many ways. But there was something about that movie that has firmly planted itself in our hearts and getting to see these places was a wonderful thing.
We decided we needed one last visit to the fortress before leaving this city. With our city cards at an end, we had to pay for tickets up the funicular. We went with the basic ticket since we didn’t need the inclusive ticket since we had visited all the museums in the fortress the other day. And it gave us one last look over the valley.
When we reached the fortress, we found they were setting up the Christmas tree for their small market. A local school group was there handing the ornaments to the guy in the lift who would put them on the tree. We think that the children probably made the ornaments themselves. What a fun activity as a class to make the ornaments and then be there when they are put on the tree. There a really sweet contrast of the historic and imposing castle with the bright colors and giggles of the children as the ornaments were put on the tree.
Instead of taking the funicular back down, we decided to take the walking path which gave us some interesting parts of the castle to see and another great view of this beautiful city.
Salzburg was everything we hoped it would be and more. What a gem of a city this is. And getting to experience it with the Christmas decorations was magic. This has been added to our list of favorite places and we would love to return to it as soon as we can.
If you need some more festive cheer, then you may want to check out these:
Riding the North Pole Express- Utah
Festival of the Holidays at Epcot- Florida
Barrel Tree Lighting at Jack Daniels- Tennessee
Thanks for coming along on this Christmas visit to Salzburg. May Christmas lights fill your soul and the sound of music fill your heart this holiday season.
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