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You may remember our visit to Mittenwald a few days earlier. After a sudden bout of heat exhaustion sent us ducking into a small grocery store for air conditioning and water, we ended up talking with a lovely couple for over an hour. What began as a necessary break became one of those unexpected travel moments we treasure most.

It was during that conversation that they suggested we visit the small town of Oberammergau. We had never heard of it — and we still struggle to pronounce it correctly — but they spoke of it with such affection that we couldn’t ignore the recommendation. We’ve learned to pay attention when locals light up about a place. And since we already love small towns and lesser-known destinations, it felt like another gentle nudge from the universe.

We had been exploring Munich’s wonderful museums for a couple of days and originally planned to spend one more day there. But Oberammergau kept coming back to us. Instead of sticking to our plan, we followed the suggestion of our new friends and boarded the train toward this unknown Bavarian town.

It turned out to be a complete delight — another reminder that the best days often begin with a detour.

Exploring Oberammergau

1. History of Oberammergau
2. Frescos & Woodcarvings of Old Town
3. Parish Church of St. Peter and Paul
4. Woodcarver Studio Street
5. Little Red Riding Hood House
6. Hansel & Gretel House
7. Kolbensattel Alpine Park

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History of Oberammergau

Oberammergau is known for three very different things: its Passion Play, its tradition of woodcarving, and the presence of the NATO School. It’s an unusual combination, to say the least — one that hints at just how layered this small Bavarian town really is.

The Oberammergau Passion Play dates back to 1634 and has since become world-famous for its portrayal of the life of Jesus. What makes this production truly remarkable is its scale and its heart. More than 2,000 residents of the village and surrounding area take part, making it a community-wide labor of love rather than a professional performance. Generations of families grow up participating in the play, passing roles and responsibilities down through the years.

The origins of the Passion Play are rooted in both tragedy and faith. According to tradition, during a devastating outbreak of the plague, a man returning home accidentally brought the disease with him. As the illness spread and lives were lost, the people of Oberammergau made a vow: if they were spared from further suffering, they would perform a play depicting the life of Jesus in gratitude. After that vow was made, no additional residents died from the plague, and many who were ill recovered. True to their promise, the town staged the first Passion Play that same year.

Since then, the play has been performed every ten years, in years ending with a zero. There have been a few exceptions — delays caused by world wars and, most recently, the COVID pandemic — as well as occasional additional performances to mark significant anniversaries. Even so, the decade-long rhythm remains central to the town’s identity.

Beyond the Passion Play, Oberammergau is also known for its long tradition of woodcarving. From architectural details to religious figures and decorative elements, this craftsmanship is visible throughout the town. That legacy is formally preserved through the Bavarian State Woodcarving School, located right in Oberammergau, continuing a tradition that has shaped the town’s character for centuries.

In more modern times, Oberammergau was selected as the home of the NATO School. Established in 1953 with just a handful of courses, it has grown into a major international training center, now offering hundreds of courses in policy, strategy, missions, and operations to NATO members and partner nations. It’s a surprising addition to a small alpine town — yet another example of how Oberammergau balances deep tradition with a global present.

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Frescos & Woodcarvings of Old Town

Another element that makes Oberammergau so distinctive is its extensive use of frescoes on the buildings. These painted facades, known as Lüftlmalerei, are found throughout the town, transforming ordinary walls into storytelling canvases. Scenes of faith, folklore, and village life stretch across homes and storefronts, making nearly every building feel like a work of art.

I love towns like this — places where wandering slowly is the whole point. In Oberammergau, you can’t rush. Each corner reveals another carefully painted scene, each brushstroke adding to the town’s character. The artwork is not decorative in a casual sense; it is deliberate, skillful, and deeply rooted in local tradition. It’s part of what gives this region its unmistakable charm.

One building featured sweeping scenes from the Passion Play painted along its side — a beautiful merging of the town’s artistic heritage and its most famous tradition. The fresco served as both artwork and tribute, reminding visitors that this production is not just a performance but part of the community’s identity.

Of all the paintings we saw, my favorite was a humble peddler carrying an array of toys. He was tucked along the far edge of a building, almost easy to miss among the larger figures. There was something quietly delightful about him — a small detail hidden within a grander story. It felt like a reminder that Oberammergau’s beauty is found not only in its headline attractions, but in the small surprises scattered throughout its streets.

We stepped into several of the Old Town shops, where the region’s woodcarving legacy was on full display. Entire storefronts were filled with nativity scenes in every size and style imaginable — from delicate, palm-sized carvings to elaborate, heirloom-worthy sets. Other shops displayed walls lined with traditional cuckoo clocks, their intricate figures poised to spring into motion. Each piece felt thoughtfully and patiently crafted, shaped by hands that had learned their trade through generations.

In Oberammergau, art is not confined to museums. It lives on the walls, in the windows, and in the hands of the people who continue to create it.

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Parish Church of St. Peter and Paul

We stopped at the Parish Church of St. Peter and Paul, a quiet but striking presence in the town. From the outside, the church has a simple, understated beauty — soft tan walls, a green dome, and a sense of calm that fits easily into its surroundings. The cemetery that wraps around the building is equally peaceful, lovingly tended and thoughtfully arranged, inviting a slow walk and a moment of reflection.

Stepping inside, however, is a complete contrast. The interior is anything but understated. Pink and gold tones cover the walls, and elaborate paintings draw your eyes upward, filling the space with color and light. The church is a beautiful example of Baroque design, rich in detail and ornamentation, yet still balanced and welcoming. It’s the kind of place that quietly takes your breath away, rewarding anyone who takes the time to step inside.

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Woodcarver Studio Street

We wandered away from the main part of town and onto what’s known as the woodcarvers’ street. Rows of houses on either side are home to studios and workshops belonging to local woodcarvers, continuing a tradition that has shaped Oberammergau for centuries. When the artists are at work, visitors are welcome to step inside and quietly watch as figures slowly emerge from blocks of wood.

Even the buildings themselves reflect this craft. Some façades are adorned with carved wooden reliefs, adding another layer of artistry to the street. Visiting in summer only heightened the beauty — flowers spilled from window boxes, colorful shutters framed painted walls, and everything felt alive with color and detail.

This street perfectly captured what makes Oberammergau so special. It’s a town made for wandering, where every building feels like a visual gift and craftsmanship is woven into everyday life.

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Little Red Riding Hood House

At the far end of the woodcarvers’ street, the scenery shifts once again — this time into the pages of a storybook. Here stand the fairy tale houses, and of all the beautiful buildings we saw in Oberammergau, these were truly the stars of the show.

The first is the Little Red Riding Hood House. The entire tale unfolds across its painted walls as though the building itself were an illustrated book. You see Red meeting the Big Bad Wolf along the path, the wolf disguised in grandmother’s bed, and the tension of the story captured in careful brushstrokes. Every scene is detailed and expressive, bringing a familiar childhood story to life in an entirely unexpected way.

It almost feels as though the house was purposefully built just to hold this tale — as if the walls themselves were waiting to tell the story.

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Hansel & Gretel House

Directly across the street stands the Hansel and Gretel House, continuing the feeling that you’ve wandered into a living fairy tale. The story unfolds in painted panels above the windows, each scene carefully placed between shutters and sky. You can see the children in the forest, the tempting gingerbread house, and the ominous presence of the witch — all rendered in delicate, expressive detail.

It is incredible to see these stories portrayed not in books, but across the facades of everyday homes. Between flower boxes and carved balconies, beloved childhood tales are woven into the architecture itself. In Oberammergau, even the buildings seem to remember the stories we grew up with.

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Kolbensattel Alpine Park

After soaking in the painted buildings of Oberammergau, we made our way just outside of town toward the Kolbensattel mountain. We paused briefly to admire the view back over the village — pastel facades tucked beneath dramatic Alpine peaks — but we had adventure on our minds.

We came for the alpine coaster.

What we quickly discovered, though, is that this mountain park offers far more than just one thrilling ride. On one side of the mountain runs a bike track, where riders hook their bikes to a lift system and are pulled steadily up the slope. On the other side is the alpine coaster, weaving its way down the mountainside in a series of curves and drops. We made very sure to get in the correct line.

• TICKETS: For one ride up and down the mountain- whether by bike, chairlift, or coaster is €17,50/ adult, €12,50/ youth ages 8-15

Watching the systems operate was half the entertainment. Cyclists clipped their bikes onto a mechanical hook and were towed uphill in an impressive display of balance and engineering.

Even more fascinating were the coaster carts themselves. Between the regular chairlifts, metal arms would grab each cart and carry it upward through the trees. As we rode the chairlift, we couldn’t help but laugh at the sight of coaster cars floating quietly above the forest like something out of a theme park dream.

At the top, we could see the line of riders winding their way down the track. Their whoops and laughter echoed across the mountainside, and our anticipation grew by the second.

One mystery puzzled us, though: empty chairlifts were steadily descending the mountain carrying nothing but lone backpacks. Bags without owners floated down the hill like abandoned cargo. We would soon learn why.

Before racing down the mountain, we explored everything waiting at the summit — and there is a lot.

First stop: the massive playground that looks like a wooden fort perched at the top of the world. Climbing walls, slides, towers, and a long zip line kept our daughter happily occupied. There were even four elaborate marble runs winding through the trees, sending wooden marbles clacking down intricate tracks.

Add in sweeping mountain views, hiking trails, a restaurant overlooking the valley, and even a small parkour course, and it felt like an alpine adventure park. Surprisingly, it wasn’t crowded — which made it even better.

Then it was finally time.

As we lined up for the coaster, we discovered the reason for the solo backpacks. No bags are allowed on the ride — not even small ones. Before boarding, you hand your bag to an attendant who sends it down the mountain via chairlift to be collected at the bottom. Mystery solved.

Two riders per cart. A quick lesson on braking. A firm warning not to bump into the rider ahead of you.

And then you’re off.

The coaster twists and dips down the mountain, banking around curves and picking up speed with every turn. You control your own brake, deciding just how brave you want to be. The wind rushes past, the mountains blur, and the laughter comes without effort. It’s pure, uncomplicated fun.

They snap your picture near the end of the ride — but ours turned out to be nothing more than a blurry image of the back of a cart. So you’ll simply have to trust me when I say it was worth every second.

(And if coasters aren’t your thing, you can always ride the chairlift back down or hike one of the scenic trails. The views alone make the trip worthwhile.)

We gathered our bags from the table at the bottom and paused for one last look at the mountains and the painted village below. Oberammergau had given us fairy-tale houses, living history, and an alpine thrill ride all in one afternoon. It was the perfect blend of storybook charm and outdoor adventure — exactly the kind of unexpected mix we seem to love most.

As we rode the train back to Munich, we found ourselves talking again about that unexpected meeting in the Mittenwald grocery store. We loved that we had met that couple, and even more that we had listened when they spoke so fondly of Oberammergau. That small nudge in a new direction led us to a day filled with painted houses, living traditions, mountain views, and a little thrill tucked into the Alps.

Oberammergau was never part of our original plan, yet it became one of those places that lingers in memory. A beautiful town nestled in the mountains, rich with history and creativity, it reminded us once again that some of the best travel days begin not with an itinerary, but with an open mind — and a willingness to follow where the day leads.

Thanks for coming along with us on this visit to Oberammergau. May fairy tales and coasters remind you just how brave you are.

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Follow along for more adventures near and far!

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